The IKEA PAX system is arguably the king of flat-pack furniture. It looks custom-made, fits tons of clothes, and costs a fraction of a bespoke carpenter's quote.
But let's be honest: building it can be a nightmare. One wrong screw, or a floor that isn't perfectly level, and you end up with doors that don't close and gaps that look terrible.
📊 The PAX Tech Card (Essential Snapshot)
Before we grab the screwdriver, here is the technical reality of what you are getting into. Save this table for reference during assembly.
| Feature | Details |
|---|---|
| Product Name | IKEA PAX Wardrobe System |
| Difficulty Level | ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ (4/5) - Hard |
| Assembly Time | 2-4 Hours (per single frame) |
| Essential Tools | Power Drill (Hex bit), Spirit Level, Rubber Mallet, Step Ladder |
| Critical Warning | Never try to build this alone. You need two people minimum. |
| Common Failure | Building it standing up in a room with a low ceiling. |
🛑 Phase 1: Pre-Purchase Warnings (Read This First!)
Most mistakes happen before you even leave the store. Avoid these common pitfalls:
1. The "Ceiling Height" Trap
The PAX frames come in two heights: 201cm and 236cm.
However, you need more than just that height to assemble it.
- If your ceiling is lower than 244cm, you MUST assemble the tall frame (236cm) standing up. You cannot build it on the floor and tilt it up; it will hit the ceiling.
- The Golden Rule: Always measure your ceiling height at multiple points in the room (floors are rarely perfectly even).
2. The Baseboard (Skirting) Problem
PAX frames are designed to sit flush against the wall. If you have baseboards (skirting boards), you have a gap.
- The Amateur Fix: Ignoring it and leaving a gap behind the wardrobe.
- The Pro Fix: Cut a section of the baseboard out where the wardrobe will sit. This gives you that built-in, luxury look.
🛠️ Phase 2: Assembly "Hacks" for a Perfect Build
Forget the confusing cartoons in the manual for a second. These are the tricks that actually matter during assembly.
Hack #1: Level the Floor, Not Just the Wardrobe
Use your spirit level on the floor where the wardrobe will stand. If the floor dips, your doors will never align. Use shims (small wedges) under the PAX feet to create a perfectly flat base before you even start building the frame.
Pro Tip: Use composite shims instead of wood - they're more stable and won't compress over time.
Hack #2: The "Diagonal" Measurement (Crucial!)
This is the step everyone skips. When you nail on the back panel, you are locking the shape of the wardrobe.
Before you nail it, measure diagonally from the top-left corner to the bottom-right corner. Then measure the other diagonal.
The two numbers MUST be exactly the same.
If they are different, your wardrobe is a parallelogram, not a rectangle, and your drawers will get stuck. Push the frame until the numbers match.
🔧 Phase 3: Troubleshooting (Fixing Common Problems)
Is your PAX acting up? Here is how to fix the most common issues.
Problem: "There is a gap between my doors!"
The Fix: This is all in the hinges. Use the 3-way hinge adjustment:
- To move the door Left/Right: Turn the screw closest to the door (vertical adjustment).
- To move the door In/Out: Turn the back screw (depth adjustment).
- To move the door Up/Down: Loosen the mounting plate screws slightly, lift the door, and retighten.
Adjust in small increments - 1/4 turns at a time, then test the door.
Problem: "The wardrobe wobbles when I open it."
The Fix: You skipped the wall anchors! Because PAX frames are tall and heavy, they must be anchored to the wall at the top. This isn't just for safety; it stops the frame from twisting (racking) every time you pull a heavy drawer.
🚚 Phase 4: The Lifecycle (How to Move a PAX)
Moving house? The IKEA PAX is notorious for breaking during moves. The particleboard core is not designed to be taken apart and reassembled multiple times.
Here is how to move it safely:
- Do NOT remove the back panel: The back panel is nailed on with 50+ tiny nails. Removing it usually destroys the frame's structural integrity.
- Strip it down: Remove all doors, drawers, and shelves. Leave only the empty shell.
- Move it whole (if possible): If you can fit the frame through doorways, move it as one piece. Wrap it in moving blankets.
- If you MUST disassemble: Do not pull the nails. Instead, gently tap the side panels out from the cam locks. Be extremely gentle.
- Lift correctly: Never lift a PAX frame by the top panel. It will rip off. Lift from the sturdy side panels.
⚠️ Moving Warning
PAX frames are NOT designed for multiple moves. If you plan to move within 2-3 years, consider a different system or be prepared to buy new frames.
❓ Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q: Can I cut a PAX frame to fit a shorter space?
A: Technically yes, but it's risky. The panels are hollow (honeycomb structure) inside. If you cut them, you lose strength. Only do this if you are an experienced DIYer and reinforce the cut edges.
Q: Is the KOMPLEMENT interior worth it?
A: Absolutely. The drawers and pull-out trays are high quality. However, you can save money by using generic bins on standard shelves instead of buying expensive drawers. Mix and match based on your needs.
Q: Can I paint my IKEA PAX?
A: Yes, but you need a Shellac-based primer (like BIN) first. The PAX surface is laminate, so regular paint will scratch off instantly without the right primer. Lightly sand, prime, then paint with furniture-grade paint.
🎯 Final Thoughts & Recommendations
The IKEA PAX system is a project, not just a purchase. But with these tips, you can achieve that $5,000 custom-closet look for a fraction of the price. Take your time, square your frame, and please... use the wall anchors!
My Top 3 Recommendations:
- Invest in good tools - a power drill with hex bits will save hours
- Buy 10% extra KOMPLEMENT items - you can always return unopened packages
- Take photos during assembly - helps if you need to troubleshoot or move it later
💬 Share Your Experience!
Have you built a PAX recently? What was your biggest struggle? Share your tips and questions in the comments below!